TT&Z7 

• Mz 



/« 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 



i 



OF 



MANUFACTURED 




ACTORYCOR I2 T - H &.PENN STS. 






<^5R 



m 



COPYRIGHT 1889 BY 
R. L. MCDONALD & CO. 

ALT, RIGHTS RESERVED. 



\ 



:' 
<" 



-f' TO THE TRADE 



In presenting our Illustrated Catalogue, we desire, in the first place, to 
thank you for the patronage that has built up, within the short space of 
a few years, one of the largest businesses of this kind in the country. We 
believe that this patronage has been secured by adhering strictly to the policy 
outlined when we first embarked in the business — namely, to put forth nothing but 
first-class work and to make the lowest possible prices on each and every number. 
As time has passed, we have learned to perfect our work in numerous ways, and 
no opportunity for improvement has been lost ; at the same time, we can 
conscientiously say that we have given the trade full advantage of every saving in 
the cost that experience has taught us to make. 

The following pages contain such staple articles as are always in stock. 
Many other specialties are not herein contained, and others are being added daily. 
If you do not, therefore, find mentioned just what you want, write us, and we shall 
endeavor to supply you. 

Price Lists on the different lines or, if desired, on all articles contained 
herein will be furnished promptly on application. We offer these goods to the 
trade as MANUFACTURERS, and all prices are based upon the actual cost of 
production in the largest quantities. Terms are uniformly net, 60, or 2 per cent 
off for cash in 10 days. 

Particular attention is requested to page 25, on which the full matter of SIZES 
is treated. This is a very important point, and as it is impossible for us to carry 
an indefinite number of sizes in every article, and equally impossible to make 
work to order, we bespeak your careful attention to the same when ordering. 

Kindly oblige us by retaining this catalogue for reference. 



A ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC DONALD & CO. 

PLAIN PANTALOON CUT. 

(Style Figure 1.) 

27. Amoskeag Extra Heavy Denim, Brown. 

28. Amoskeag Extra Heavy Denim, Grey. 

34. Pemberton Standard Denim, Blue. 
37. Extra 9 oz. Indigo Denim. 

35. Medium Weight Indigo Denim. 

11. Stark 10 oz., Mode Duck, triple stitched. 
Painter's White Drill, Standard Weight. 

CALIFORNIA STRAPS. 

(Style Figure 2.) 
10. Extra Heavy Blue and Gold Denim. 

12. Amoskeag Fancy Stripe Denim. 

13. York Double-Spun Cassimere Denim. 

29. York 10 oz. Gold Denim. 
31. York 10 oz. Grey Denim. 

33. York Extra Heavy Fancy Blue Denim. 

SPECIAL STYLES. 

(See Figure 3.) 

34. Bib Front Standard Blue Denim. 

Note. — This is the most perfect engineer's garment made. The fronts cut 
in one piece come up very high to protect the whole bosom, while the arrange- 
ment of the pockets and the fit is superior to anything on the market. 

(See Figure 4.) 

Miner's Heavy White Duck, Double Seat and Knee. 

PANTALOON CUT. 

2. Stark 8 oz. Duck, Drab. 

3. 7 oz. Duck, Drab. 

4. Pemberton Standard Denim, Blue. 

5. Amoskeag 9 oz. Grey Denim. 



FOR SIZES ON ALL OVERALLS, SEE PAGE 25. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC'dONALD & CO. 




Fig. 1. 




Fig. 2. 




Fig 3. 




Fig. 4 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. Mo' DONALD <fc CO. 



PiilTTilLOOlTS. 

(See Figure 5.) 

010. Extra Heavy Blue and Gold Denim. 
029. York 10 oz. Gold Denim. 
031. York 10 oz. Grey Denim. 

KENTUCKY JEANS. 

80. Plain Finish extra wool filling. Fig. 6. 

95. Full trimmed excellent fabric. Fig. 7. 

94. Extra Fine hand finished throughout. Fig. 8. 

100. Merino Doeskins, finest made, hand-finished throughout, same as best 
Cassimere pants. Fig. 8. 

92. Lined throughout, extra quality. Fig. 7. 

83. Polaris Doeskins, plain finish. Fig. 6. 

85. Boy's Polaris Jeans, full trimmed. 

86. Boy's Extra Wool Jeans, full trimmed. 

All the above Jeans pants are carried in light and medium steel, Oxford, 
black and brown or gold mixed. 

SUNDRY PANTS. 

61. Cotton Worsted, assorted patterns. Style Fig. 7. 

72. 8 oz. Cottonade, assorted patterns. Style Fig. 6. 

302. Corduroy, assorted drabs, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 

300. Corduroy, extra quality, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 

330. Wool Satinet, assorted patterns, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 

338. 8 oz. Satinet, assorted patterns, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 

327. 8 oz. Cassimere, assorted patterns, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 

65. 10 oz. Cassimere, assorted patterns, full trimmed. Style Fig. 7. 



FOB SIZES ON PANTALOONS, SEE PAGE 25. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC' DONALD & CO. 











ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCDONALD <fe CO. 



C^.SSIMEEB PiilTTS. 

310. Scotch Cheviot, all wool, heavy weight. 

312. Bangor Cheviot, medium weight. 

314. Inverness Cheviot, heavy weight. 

316. Columbia Merino, all wool. 

318. Buell's all wool, medium weight. 

320. Kiamense all wool, 8 oz. 

322. Flint Cassimeres, all wool. 

324. Columbia Merino, 8 oz. 

326. Crystal silk thread, 8 oz. 

328. Buell's Merino, summer weight. 

In every number of above there are from four to six patterns. 

Above are represented by cut on opposite page. They are trimmed and' 
finished in the most superior manner and will be found equal in workmanship to- 
the best tailor-made garments. We make a specialty of these goods and our 
facilities for producing them are unequalled. We carry them in a full assortment 
of regular sizes, as shown by the list below ; but positively cannot supply them, 
in any sizes not therein contained : 



30x30 


32x30 


33x30 


34x30 


36x31 


38x30 


30x31 


32x31 


33x31 


34x31 


36x32 


38x32 


31x30 


32x32 


33x32 


34x32 


36x33 


38x34 


31x31 


32x33 


33x33 


34x33 


36x34 


40x31 


31x32 




33x34 


34x34 




40x32 



SPECIAL NUMBER, 

No. 350 Extra, three styles Med. Cass. 

This number alone is carried in sizes not embraced in above list ; we carry a 
full assortment of odd measurements, such as 29x32 or 31x34, and all extra waist 
sizes up to 46. All orders for sizes other than regular sizes will be executed in, 
this number. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO DONALD & CO. 




FTG. 9. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCDONALD & CO. 




Ftg 10. 



Fig. 11 




Fig. 12. 



Fig. 13 



[LLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCDONALD & CO. 



PULL COAT SHAPE. 

(Figures 10 and 11.) 
13. York 10 oz. Double-Spun Cassimere Denims. 
28. Amoskeag 9 oz. Grey Denims. 

33. York 9 oz. Fancy Blue Denims. 
37. Amoskeag 9 oz. Indigo Denims. 

34. Pemberton Standard Blue Denims. 
105. McDonald Plaid Cheviot. 

STRAP BACK. 

(Figures 12 and 13.) 

27. Amoskeag 9. oz. Brown Denims. 

34. Pemberton Standard Blue Denims. 

37. Amoskeag 9 oz. Iudigo. 

Sizes in both styles Jumpers : 36, 38, 40, 42, 44. 

We also make No. 13 workingmen's vest, of same material and to match No. 
13 coat and No. 13 overalls; thus supplying full suit of excellent wearing material 
at a low price. 

Our jackets will be found in fit and workmanship superior to anything in the 
market, having been so pronounced time and again by the best judges. Manu- 
facturers generally, unwilling to bestow the time or not having the ability neces- 
sary to perfect aline of patterns properly drafted, u chop" out these garments and 
run them up as they would common bags. We have taken special pains and 
experimented largely to secure a garment that is not only comfortable but fits 
equal to a Cassimere coat. 



10 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCTDONALD & CO. 




Fig. 14. 



11 



LXILTEE) GrOOJDS. 

(See Figures 14, 15 and 16.) 

200. 10 oz. Duck, Tan Canton Lining, Ulster. 

200. 10 oz. Duck, Tan Canton Lining, Coat. 

200. 10 oz. Duck, Tan Canton Lining, Pants. 

200. 10 oz. Duck, Tan Canton Lining, Vest. 

201. 8 oz. Duck, Tan Canton Lining, Coat only. 
204. 10 oz. Duck, Grey Blanket Lining, Ulster. 
204. 10 oz. Duck, Grey Blanket Lining, Coat. 

204. 10 oz. Duck, Grey Blanket Lining, Vest. 

205. 8 oz. Duck, Grey Blanket Lining, Coat only. 
210. 10 oz. Duck, Scarlet Blanket Lining, Ulster. 
210. 10 oz. Duck, Scarlet Blanket Lining, Coat. 
210. 10 oz. Duck, Scarlet Blanket Lining, Yest. 

Sizes in Ulsters, Coats and Vests : 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 and 44. 

Our trade on Lined Goods has increased so largely that we are now compelled 
to keep a force on them the year round. By selecting the best hands and giving 
them permanent employment on the one line, we have secured a much better 
class of work than can be done by throwing on, at the time when the demand for 
the goods begins, a large force, a majority of which have never before made the 
stuff. Our garments are all triple-stitched, and in all particulars are recognized 
as the standard. 

We desire to call the attention of the trade to one point that is not generally 
understood. The material of which these coats are made is very unyielding at 
first, and the temptation of the buyer is to secure one several sizes too large. 
This allows the shoulders to droop, the sleeve to twist forward and causes a bind- 
ing over the muscle of the arm. To avoid this, select a garment that fits snug 
against the body at the shoulder, so that the seam comes over the actual juncture 
of arm and body. The proper position of the coat is then maintained and as 
soon as set to the body, it will be found very comfortable. 



12 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO'dONALD <fc CO. 





ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCDONALD <fe OO. 



13 






FINE FZ.AITITZZ. DRESS SHIRTS. 

These are one of our specialties. One department of our Factory is given up 
exclusively to this work, and our facilities are such as to enable us to produce 
faultless garments. In variety of pattern and style of cut, we carry the most 
extensive line in the market, and by our new cut, on which we have applied 
for letters patent, we have secured the only coat-fitting shirt ever made. The fit 
on our new garments will be found perfect over the shoulders and about the arms, 
and at the same time the sleeves are so shaped that there can be no possibility of 
drawing. All who appreciate a handsome fit, as well as an easy shirt, will wear 
no other. 



14 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC DONALD & CO. 




© 



© 











ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, K. L. MO'dONALD & CO. 15 

SCOTCH SUMMER WEIGHTS. 

550. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 21. 
555. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 21. 
560. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 21. 
565. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 20. 
Cambridge. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 21. 
Zanzibar. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 20. 
Phoenix. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 21. 
Madras. Stripes and Plaids. Style Fig. 23. 

MEDIUM AND HEAVY WEIGHTS. 

518. Lumbermen's Imp. Flannel. Fig. 21. 

524. Fancy Mixtures, assorted shades. Fig. 19. 

526. Imp. Scotch Stripes and Plaids. Fig. 19. 

532. Imp. Scotch Stripes and Mixtures. Fig. 25. 

535. 13 oz. Alaska Melton, navy, wine and drab. Fig. 21. 

800x. Talbot Solid Color Flannel, five shades. Fig. 18. 

850. 5 oz. All Wool Mixtures, four shades. Fig. 21. 

BLUE FLANNELS. 

712. Lace Front, all wool. Fig. 22. 
715. 5 oz. Wool, corded front. Fig. 20. 
722. Plain Medium Weight. Fig. 21. 

720. Buell's 9. oz. Merino Indigo, heaviest made. Fig. 21. and Fig. 25. 
800x. Talbot Fine Pleats. Fig. 18. 
All above boxed in 6-12 boxes. 

SATINET AND HEAVY BUNDLE SHIRTS. 

F69. Florence Blue Mixed Melton. Fig. 21. 

F70. Grey Kepellent, doable pleated front. 

F77. Blue Flannel. Fig. 24. 

F83. Fancy Plaids and Check Satinets. Fig. 21. 

F89. Grey Melton, lace front. Fig. 22. 

F94. Heavy Cassimere. Fig. 21. 

540. Two-tone Satinets, Fig. 19. 



SIZES IN ABOVE, 14^ TO 17^. 



16 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO DONALD & CO. 











6 

fa 


2 



o 




ILLU8TRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO DONALD <fe CO. 



17 



WORKING SHIRTS. 

All our Working Shirts are full shaped at arm 
and shoulder. They are extra made and double 
stitched, and will be found unequalled for comfort 
and wear. 




106. Westminster Chev., Amoskeag styles. Fig. 26. 

105. McDonald Cheviot, plaids and end and end. Style Fig. 26. 

126. Santa Rosa Cheviots, four patterns. Style Fig. 26. 

128. Pemberton End and End. Style Fig. 26. 

155. Extra Heavy Indigo, end and end. Style Fig. 26. 

174. French Chambray, corded bosom. Style Fig. 20. 

173. Heavy Chambray, corded bosom. Style Fig. 20. 

178. Linen Stripe Cheviots, corded bosom. Style Fig. 20. 

179. French Chambray, pleated front. Style Fig. 23. 

180. Flannelettes, pleated front. Style Fig. 23. 

Sizes : 14£ to 17. 



18 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC'DONALD & CO. 




ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MCDONALD & CO. 19 



WHITE SHIBTS. 

UNLAUKDERED. 

1810. W Blea. Cotton, 1600 linen bosom. Styles Figs. 27 and 28. 
1900. Dwight Anchor, 1800 linen bosom. Styles Figs. 27 and 28. 

675. N. Y. Mills, 2000 linen bosom. Styles Figs. 27 and 28. 
1815. Boy's sizes, same as 1810 Men's. Styles Figs. 27 and 28. 
Above open back. 6-12 boxes. 

LAUNDERED. 

1800. Open back, W Cotton, 1600 linen, 6-12 boxes. Figs. 27 and 28. 

1900. Open back, Dwight Anchor, 1800 linen, 6-12 boxes. Figs. 27 and 28. 

1925. Open front, Dwight Anchor, 1800 linen, 6-12 boxes. Fig. 29. 

1950. K Y. Mills Muslin, open back, 1800, 6-12 boxes. Figs. 27 and 28. 

2000. N. Y. Mills Muslin, open back, 2000 linen, full custom made, hand-made 
button holes, 2-12 boxes. Figs. 27 and 28. 

2050. Open front, same as 2000. Fig. 29. 

1815. Boy's sizes, same as Men's 1800, 6-12 boxes. Figs. 27 and 28. 

1965. N. Y. Mills, Boy's sizes to match Men's 1950. Figs. 27 and 28. 

All above are made in sizes 14 to 17-J, sleeves 31 to 34. Positively no extra 
sizes will be made to order, but such may be obtained in No. 2075 Extra. Boy's 
sizes : 12J, 13, 13| and 14. 

2075 Extra. Best grade, N-. Y. Mills Muslin, best linen bosom, extra work 
throughout. This number is designed to meet the requirements of odd 
and extra size men. It is made in 18, 18J and 19 neck, and in extra- 
ordinary lengths of shirt and sleeves. Made in either open back or front. 

Being the only manufacturers of White and Fancy Shirts in the West, we 
are able to offer, at factory prices, garments designed and made with special 
reference to the requirements of the Western trade. All grades are cut upon the 
same liberal patterns, and are trimmed, stitched and finished with regard to wear 
as well as appearance. As we operate our own box factory in connection, we can 
put any shirt up in any style desired — one, two or six in a box — the. only 
difference being in the cost of boxes, which will be 30 cents extra for 2-12 
and 50 cents for 1-12 boxes. This will be found a great convenience to the 
dealer who wants a special thing to make a run on. 



20 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC 5 DONALD & 00. 



F4.XTC7 LA.TT1TDBRBD SHIRTS. 

Following numbers, 64x64 cloth, open back, 1 standing, 1 T. D. collar, cuffs 
attached, 6-12 boxes. Style Fig. 27. 

1550 1556 1562 1568 

1552 1558 1564 1570 

1554 1560 1566 1572 

Following numbers, 64x64 cloth, open front, collar and cuffs attached, 6-12 boxes. 
Style Fig. 30. 

1500 1505 1510 

Following numbers, 72x84 Percales, open back, 1 standing, 1 T. D. collar, cuffs 
attached, 6-12 boxes. Style Fig. 27. 

1600 1605 1610 1615 1620 

1715. Open front, 72x84 cloth, collar and cuffs attached, 6-12 boxes. Style Fig. 30. 

Following numbers, 76x84 Percale, Standard Quality, open back, 2T. D. collars, 
1 pair cuffs ; put up in 2-12 boxes. (See Fig. 31.) Collars and cuffs rolled 
and crimped. 

920 940 950 960 970 

930 945 955 965 1240 1275 

Following numbers, same material, open front, collar and cuffs attached, 2-12 
boxes. See Fig. 30. 

1140 1155 1165 1170 

Following style, open front, 1 standing, 1 T. D. collar, 1 pair cuffs, 2-12 boxes. 
Fig. 31. 

2600 

Following numbers, 84x88 Penangs, Super Quality, open back, 1 standing, 1 T. 
D. collar, 1 pair cuffs, 2-12 boxes. Fig. 31. 

1400 1410 1430 

1425 1447 1440 

1005. Checks and 1015 Stripes, Indigo Penang, open back, super quality, 2 T. 
D. collars, 1 pair cuffs, 2-12 boxes. 

1105. Check and 1115 Stripes, same material, open front, collar and cuffs at- 
tached. 

1300. French Chambray, open front, collar and cuffs attached, 2-12 boxes. 

1350. French Chambray, open back, 2 T. D. collars, 1 pair cuff3, 2-12 boxes. 

1340. Brown Linen, open front, collar and cuffs attached, 6-12 boxes. Fig. 30. 

1525. Blue Chambray, open front. Style Fig. 30. 

1310, 1312 and 1314. Linen Stripe Cheviot, open front. Style Fig. 30. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO'doNALD <fe CO. 




Fig. 31. 



All our Fancy Laundered Shirts, of Standard and Super Quality, are put up 
in 2-12 boxes, as shown in Fig. 31. Collars are folded and crimped, and cuffs 
are sprung into shape, same as best linen goods. Each box contains a pair of 
shirts, with collars and cuffs to match, all complete. 



22 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. Mc' DONALD <fc OO. 





ILLU8TRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. Mc'DONALD & CO. 28 



SUMMER COATS AXTD VESTS. 

Rochdale. 5 oz. Wool Mixtures, five shades. 

Climax. Cotton Warp, unshrinking flannels made especially to our order for 
this purpose, four shades. 

3100. Assabet, all wool, 6 oz. Cassimere, best material for summer obtainable. 

3150. English Broadcloth, 6 oz., the handsomest coat in the market. 

Ceylon. Imported Scotch, light weights, stripes and checks. 

400. Domet Cotton Flannels, equal in appearance and wear to the wool goods. 

3000. Stripe Alpacas, six shades. 

3050. Lustres, four shades. 

128. Blue Chambray ; a handsome coat and vest for the money and the best 
wearer obtainable. 

Sizes in above : 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40 and 42. 

Figures 32 and 33 represent patterns adopted for 1889. The goods (except 
the 400 and 128 cotton) are stitched throughout with silk, have handsome super 
pearl buttons, and are a stylish and easy fit. A special feature is the long top 
pocket on the vest, which enables the wearer to carry therein with safety memo- 
randa books and pencils. 



24 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MO 7 DONALD & CO. 



TTETBEEZ TXTE-A-I5. 





Fig. 85. 



Fig. 34. 



Drill Drawers, made of Standard Unbleached Drill. 

Jean Drawers, Best Bleached Jean, cut full pantaloon style ; seam on outside. 

220. Canton Shirts and Drawers, unbleached. 

230. Heavy Canton Shirts and Drawers, unbleached. 

250. Extra Bleached Canton Shirts and Drawers, Figures 34 and 35, heaviest 
material, trimmed with striped silesia pipings and facings. 

280. Heavy Unbleached Canton, cut full pantaloon style, same as Fig. 34. 



33x32 


34x32 


36x31 


38x32 


33x33 


34x33 


36x32 


38x33 


33x34 


34x34 


36x33 


38x34 


33x35 


34x35 


36x34 


40x30 


34x30 


34x36 


38x30 


40x32 


34x31 


36x30 


38x31 


40x34 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC'DONALD <fc 00. 25 



SIZES. 

Please note that Overalls numbers 10, 31, 29, 37 and 34, and Pants numbers 
010, 029, 031, 80, 92, 95 and 72 are made in the following sizes : 

30x29 32x30 

30x30 32x31 

30x31 32x32 

31x30 32x33 

31x31 32x34 

31x32 33x30 

33x31 
All other styles of Overalls and Pants are carried in the following sizes only : 

30x30 32x32 33x33 34x34 

31x31 32x33 33x34 36x32 40x32 

32x31 33x31 34x31 36x33 

33x32 34x32 38x32 

34x33 38x33 

The following extra large sizes are made only in 10, 29, 31, 11, 34, 37 Over- 
alls and in 95 Jean pants : 

42x30 44x30 46x30 48x30 

42x31 44x31 46x31 48x31 

42x32 44x32 46x32 48x32 

42x34 44x34 

Boy's Pants and Overalls are made as follows : 

24x24 25x25 26x26 27x27 28x28 29x29 

Any size or sizes may be ordered at the selection of the buyer. No extra 
charge for extra sizes. 

As we offer a larger line for selection than any other manufacturers, we hope 
our friends will not embarrass us by calling for sizes not included in our list. 
Kindly look before ordering and if sizes wanted are not made in the overalls or 
pants you have selected, order them in one of the other styles in which the sizes 
are carried. 

We have tabulated size-lists for ordering, which will be supplied on applica- 
tion, thus enabling the dealer to order exactly according to his wants. Where 
orders do not state sizes, we shall use our best judgment in executing ; but it is 
always best for the buyer to at least name limits within which he desires them 
to run. 



26 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, B. L. MCDONALD <fe GO. 



THE MANUFACTURE OP FURNISHING GOODS. 




T MAY be of interest to the dealer who handles such goods as are herein 
enumerated, to learn something of the processes employed in their manu- 
facture. Unlike many articles of every-day use, they cannot be turned out 
"automatically," nor has mechanical science been able to devise means of dis- 
pensing, to any considerable extent, with the correct eye and steady hand of the 
skilled seamstress. To be sure, the aid of machinery, beautiful and intricate in 
some instances, has been invoked and everything possible is done by "power ;" 
but every improvement in the speed of a machine, every elaboration to increase 
its functions or capacities, renders the watchfulness of an intelligent mind still 
more indispensable. The great advantage which the community has gained in 
the direction of cheaper and better garments since the inauguration of the factory 
system has been secured, not by the discovery of entirely new processes of 
manufacture, but by the development of those three factors : the division of labor, 
the possibility of turning out large quantities of every style, the education and 
supervision of the help. The cheapness depends largely upon the first two of 
these, the quality on the last. To make goods cheaply, make them in quantities 
and rush them through. This any one may do, and this every "slop-shop" 
manufacturer does ; but to make them well, so that of the thousands of garments 
turned out daily, each shall be a sample ; to watch for errors and imperfections 
and to lay the blame where it belongs ; to impress all hands with the desire to 
improve constantly in their work ; these are the important attributes of intelligent 
and successful manufacturing, and it is towards this point that our energies have 
been specially directed. 

Parties whose business has led them to inspect other institutions of the kind 
affirm that McDonald Factory, while probably the largest of all, is undoubtedly 
the best arranged factory for the manufacture of Men's Furnishings in the country. 
The cutting rooms, one for overalls, pants, etc., and one for shirts, each 40x150 
feet, are located on the fourth floor. Appropriate cutting tables are arranged in 
these rooms, each table being the full length of the room, about 144 feet, or 48 
yards. A hydraulic elevator serves to raise the goods by case from the store 
rooms on the first floor. When ready to be cut, the goods are spread at full 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC'DONALD <fe CO. 27 

length upon the table, each piece exactly above the other until the required 
number of thicknesses is obtained, this number varying from thirty to one 
hundred, according to weight and organization of the fabric Upon the top piece 
the patterns are spread and outlined with chalk, all trimmings, etc., being marked 
in as closely as possible. Right here comes the great advantage of working in 
quantities, for not only is the material thoroughly worked up, but when once 
marked, it is no more diffiult to cut two or five dozen at a time than a single one. 
It will be observed what a serious loss of time there is if a cutter has to spread 
his material, mark it and then cut only one thickness. The extra expense is pro- 
portionate to the number of layers that would ordinarily have been cut, probably 
thirty or fifty times as much as if done in the regular way. We are frequently 
asked to make a special size shirt or pant, and it is rare indeed when the extra 
cost of cutting alone does not exceed all margin of profit in the goods. 

The actual cutting is done with a knife, a flat blade held in a handle by a set- 
screw. This must be kept very sharp, and in cutting, the lines must be accurately 
followed with the blade perfectly vertical. A skilled hand does this with won- 
derful precision and deftness. A case of jeans containing about 1,000 yards has 
been converted into pants by two cutters in two hours — all operations, spreading, 
marking, cutting and bundling being done within the time. After being cut, the 
goods are rolled into bundles with all parts necessary to the complete garment, 
properly marked, tickets included. These bundles are then sent to the distribut- 
ing room, a small room adjoining each stitching room, from which all work is 
given out. On giving out work to each operator, she is charged with it and when 
returned completed, is credited. The machines used for stitching in McDonald 
Factory are the Singer Oscillator, the Wheeler & Wilson D 10, No. 12, D 12 and 
2, and the average speed at which they are run is about 1,200 to 1,400 stitches 
per minute. They are arranged on tables, holding from forty to eighty each, and 
the shafting operating them runs beneath the table. The transmitter or attach- 
ments, by which the power is transferred from the shaft to the machine, are so 
marvellously perfect in operation that the machine may be run at any speed 
according to the varying pressure of the foot, and when running at highest rate, 
may be stopped on a single stitch. 

In overalls and pants, the botton holes in the fly are made by machine or 
hand before it is sewed in ; on shirts, coats and all other work, the stitching is 
completed first. After the operator has finished her work on the bundle, she 
returns it to the distributing room and is credited with it. Afterwards it is given 



28 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, R. L. MC'DONALD & CO. 

out to handworkers to put in the stays, facings, etc., and then buttons are put on, 
either sewed on by hand, as on Cassimere pants, or put on by steam power machine 
in the case of overalls. After this operation, overalls are ready for inspection, 
folding and assorting, which is done in another department. Pants and shirts 
(excepting such as are laundered) are sent to the pressing room, and white and 
fancy shirts are sent to the laundry. 

Following these last, we find they are washed in a great wheel operated by 
power, the water being boiled by live stearn ; they are then wrung out in a centrif- 
ugal wringer, operated at very high speed, starched by machine and rubbed off 
by hand. The drying is done in an apartment constructed for the purpose, super- 
heated by steam. Dampened under pressure to secure evenness of moisture 
they are ironed by power, special and expensive machines being provided for 
bosoms, for neck-bands, for wrist-bands, for collars and cuffs, etc. The final 
folding is done by skilled hands who are among the highest paid employes of the 
Factory. Parodoxical as it may seem, the water used in the lauudry is that of 
the "Big Muddy," but it is rendered as clear as if from the clearest spring by 
filtering through power filters. 

Shirts from the laundry are sent to the shirt room to be boxed and examined. 
Boxes for them are made in another department which is supplied with all modern 
machinery for the purpose. It may be mentioned, as an instance of division of 
labor, that a laundered shirt, when boxed complete with collars and cuffs and 
ready to be sent to the salesroom, has had work performed upon it by eighteen 
different persons. 

Each department is in charge of a special superintendent or forelady, and a 
complete record is kept of all cuts, so that by reference to the books in the office it 
it is possible to tell exactly what work is on. The necessity of this is apparent when 
it is stated that about $40,000.00 worth of goods are in process at any given time. 

Steam for the laundry, for heating the building and for the engine, is supplied 
by Heine water tubes, while a Harris Corliss engine furnishes the motive power. 
A skilled machinist has charge of all sewing machines and another looks after all 
piping, shafting, belting, etc. About fifty men are employed as cutters, pressers, 
machinists, superintendents and book-keepers, besides watchmen, engineer and 
fireman. Notwithstanding the amount of detail connected with such an enterprise, 
the whole has been directly and entirely in the hands of the firm from the start. 
All goods made are designed and the patterns cut on the premises, either by a 
member of the firm, who is a practical cutter, or approved by him, and all work of 
every kind is under their constant supervision. 



Following out these ideas and taking advantage of these qualifications for 
producing superior work, the output of McDonald Factory has been doubled 
within the past two years. 



IfflelDOWAL© 



Shirts, Overalls and Pantaloons 



ARE THE 

CHEAPEST AND BEST, 

BECAUSE 

They are perfect in shape, 

They are not pieced nor patched, 

They are made of the best fabrics, 

They are supplied with the best buttons and trimmings, 
They are sewed with the best thread, 

They are stitched finer and tighter than any, 
They are made in the greatest variety of sizes, and 

Every garment is specially examined and guaranteed perfect in workmanship. 



HONEST GOODS AT POPULAR PRICES. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



j * T Tj 

/ ^ 014 080 178 1 • 

OTHdALESI^OOM 



KL 




OWN, MANUF^ oled 



ACOMPLETE SELECTION OF 



RYGOODS&NOTP 




I 



HHnrara 

ITiWHIIiWlWlil i 



mS 



mm 



■i 



ma 







i£ 







LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

If 




014 080 178 1 



Conservation Resources 
Lig-Free® Type I 
Ph 8.5. Buffered 



